How to Get Rid of Ground Squirrels in the Yard

Ground squirrels are persistent diggers, and their burrows can spread faster than many homeowners expect. The most effective way to solve the problem is to address both the animals and the conditions that support them: food, cover, soft soil, and safe travel paths. A step-by-step plan also reduces the chance of harming non-target wildlife or accidentally making the problem worse.

Are you dealing with squirrels or something else?

Start by confirming you’re seeing ground squirrels (not tree squirrels, chipmunks, gophers, rats, or rabbits), because control methods differ. Ground squirrels typically run along the ground, pause upright to scan for predators, and create visible burrow entrances with scattered soil nearby. Signs of damage often include chewed seedlings, missing fruits and vegetables, clipped ornamental plants, and thin or uneven areas in lawns.

It helps to map activity for several days. Note where squirrels enter the yard, which garden beds they visit, and where soil is freshly kicked out. This quick “site survey” makes later steps—like exclusion, barriers, and traps—more targeted and more likely to work.

How to find burrows and assess risk

Burrows are the center of the problem. Look for openings near hard edges (slabs, sheds, retaining walls), under dense plants, or along fences where squirrels feel protected. Multiple entrances are common, and tunnels can extend under landscaping features. If you see fresh soil, spiderwebs broken across the entrance, or small tracks, the burrow is active.

Assess safety before you disturb anything. Burrows can undermine patios and walkways, and they can interfere with irrigation lines or drip tubing in garden beds. If you suspect tunnels near a foundation or you’ve noticed sinking soil, treat the area carefully and avoid heavy watering until you have a plan to stabilize the soil after the squirrels are gone.

Deterrent and repellent options that fit a yard

Deterrents work best when you remove food and cover at the same time. Clean up fallen fruit and bird seed, reduce ground-level hiding spots, and keep plants trimmed away from fences and dense corners. Regular disturbance—changing up where you place sprinklers, moving décor, or altering access routes—can also make the habitat less comfortable.

Repellent products vary widely, and results depend on weather, irrigation, and how strongly squirrels are motivated by food. If you use a repellent, follow the label precisely and reapply as directed, especially after rain or watering. Treat repellents as a supporting tool, not the foundation of the plan, and combine them with barriers or exclusion so squirrels can’t simply tolerate the odor and keep feeding.

Traps: when they make sense and what to check first

Traps can be useful when you need to reduce a small population quickly, especially around high-value garden plants. Use only trap types and methods that are legal in your area, and check local and state rules before you begin; regulations can differ by county and by species classification. Place traps along travel routes and near active burrows, and avoid positioning where pets, children, or non-target wildlife might encounter them.

If you’re not experienced, consider consulting local services that handle wildlife conflicts and understand humane handling requirements. Also avoid “partial solutions,” like trapping without addressing access and habitat; otherwise, you may remove a few squirrels only to have new ones move into the same burrow network.

Exclusion, fencing, and barriers for long-term control

Exclusion is often the most durable solution because it prevents re-entry. For garden beds, use physical barriers such as buried hardware cloth to block digging, and protect individual plants with small cages or guards where practical. For larger areas, fencing can reduce movement into the yard, but it needs the right design to be effective.

A common mistake is installing fencing that stops above-ground access but ignores burrowing. Ground squirrels can dig under barriers, so many setups require a below-grade component (an underground skirt) and secure attachment to posts so gaps don’t open over time. Pay attention to corners, gate areas, and places where soil level changes—these are frequent weak points.

Mulch, lawns, irrigation, and prevention after cleanup

After you’ve reduced activity, focus on cleanup and prevention so the yard doesn’t remain an easy habitat. Fill and compact inactive burrows only after you’re confident they’re no longer in use; otherwise, you may simply encourage new digging. Once tunnels are addressed, restore damaged lawns with soil repair and reseeding as needed, and stabilize areas that have settled so you don’t create low spots that collect water.

Adjusting irrigation can also help. Overwatered soil is easier to dig and can contribute to collapse around tunnels, while inconsistent watering can stress plants and make garden areas more vulnerable to browsing. Aim for watering patterns that support plant health without creating constantly soft soil. In landscaping beds, choose mulch depth carefully—mulch can suppress weeds and protect soil, but thick, fluffy layers may provide cover. Keep vegetation trimmed, reduce clutter where predators can’t see, and regularly inspect for new holes so you can respond early.

A prevention mindset is what keeps the damage from returning. When you combine exclusion, habitat changes, and quick response to the first new burrow, you reduce the odds that ground squirrels will re-establish a colony in the same yard.

In most yards, lasting results come from a layered approach: identify activity, focus on burrows, use deterrent and repellent tools as support, apply traps only with careful attention to local rules, and prioritize barriers and fencing to stop re-entry. With consistent cleanup and habitat adjustments around lawns, soil, irrigation, and garden plants, the yard becomes far less attractive and easier to maintain over time.